The day started off reasonably enough (although, spookily, it rained again on our last day in Hikkaduwa -- looking for omens here). We couldn't face getting back on board the Hikkaduwa train knowing it would probably be as stuffed as it was when we got off. And we still had to get from Colombo Fort to Negombo, either by train or taxi, and then by taxi to our next hotel. Sod it; after blowing so much dosh getting to the country in the first place it seemed churlish not to invest in a taxi all the way. As it turned out, the hotel arranged it all and only charged us $74. Our taxi from Negombo airport to City Beds cost $25 so the extra thirty five quid was reasonable.
The taxi was air-conditioned, which was a bonus from the last time we tried this long distance. And the trip was pleasant; most of it northwards on the new expressway. It was only when our driver, with an imperfect command of English, said, "Today holiday!"
"Excellent", we murmured politely.
"No drink!" he added cheerfully. I suddenly developed a sinking feeling and looked at Linda.
"What?", I croaked.
"Do you drink?", he asked, helpfully.
"I'm English. Course I drink."
"Ah", he concluded, unhelpfully.
We arrived at the hotel in reasonable time and checked in. And was dismayed to see a sign at the foyer entrance pronouncing PUBLIC BAR CLOSED. A quick Google search confirmed this was Poya Day: "Poya is the name given to the Lunar monthly Buddhist holiday of Uposatha in Sri Lanka, where it is a civil and bank holiday". But the kicker is the following law: "significance is given to Full moon poya days during which the sale of alcoholic beverages, meats and fish is prohibited". We quickly unpacked and set out on an exploratory walk. Sure enough, every bar and restaurant within an hour's walk on the main road from our hotel was locked up tight. Those restaurants that were open had chalkboard signs declaring BAR CLOSED. Moreover, omens were getting more significant: clouds were building in the skies and there was a greater preponderance of large, ugly, black carrion birds everywhere we turned. It was starting to look like something from a Stephen King novel. Rain threatened to start at any moment.
It gets worse. At the time of writing this it is January 31st. We leave on the 7th February. On the 4th February, it is Sri Lanka's Independence Day, and guess what? The hotel has announced that "the sale of alcohol is restricted to in room dining only" whatever the hell that means. Further research at the Department of Excise web site reveals that every bar and restaurant will be closed down on poya days, Independence Day and a plethora of other super-duper important public holidays (What's the point in having a holiday, then?). Is this starting to sound familiar yet, Mike? And we haven't even started on the upcoming Sri Lankan elections.
Yes. Well. At least I have had some training in this. Memories of skulking through the streets of Bangkok with Mike on Prohibition days looking for bars, knocking on speakeasy doors and demanding a "pot of coffee" have taught me this: if any enterprising local were to ignore this stupid edict, they would do so away from the street and full view of any passing police car. However, I was also pretty sure Linda was not up to randomly skulking around the back streets of Negombo on our first evening. Hmm. On our exploratory walk, one owner came out and made the point that he had "tables out the back on the beach". Rethink. We ventured forth again around 5 o'clock and . . . Bingo! First hit. We were led from the road, through the restaurant, out to a patio on the edge of the beach where a group of whiteys were furtively clutching their bottles of Lion and various cocktails. The guys were happy to serve us whatever we wanted and had a good meal of prawn curry and Nasi Goreng for good measure. Aha! Again the forces of disorder and rebellion triumph over the evil religious forces of law and order! Now all that remains is to subvert Sunday . . .
3 comments:
Well done mon brave !
Third world countries have to really to get over this crap dogma ! Why the hell do we give them all this development money if their not developing!
Its an election : I can't vote in your totally corrupt f*****G election so why I can't I have a beer ?
Its a Buddha day day : I'm not a Buddhist so who gives a toss !
I need money - come in : Found some body sensible at last - thank the lord - any lord !
We've cracked it from Peru to Vietnam Philleas Fogg but Sri Lanka is getting lower and lower on my visiting list !
Good luck on Sunday sounds like a perfect storm to ensure high spending, alcoholic tourist never return to such a 'shithole' *.
Refs :
* Trump
Ha Ha! Well done, Mike. Thought you would like this post. Jury's still out on Sri Lanka as a whole although maybe I appear too critical in the journalistic pursuit of a "good read". I managed to put everyone off Cuba and Saga Holidays last year, after all! Is very different from a predictable cruise or package holiday, at the very least.
My my, Mister Angry really got that off his chest, thought he might pop a blood vessel with that rant. Hopefully he's found some beer to calm his nerves.
Maybe the next time you and Passthegin jet off on your travels you should consult Dr Google and ask a few questions, so you don't have to skulk around looking furtive. Passthegin shouldn't have to skulk it's not becoming.
I'll pop over to the Leap and suggest to Eric he tries it, no booze on Bank Holidays, the Queens birthday etc, I can see it catching on. I can hear the ranting and raving already.
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